A Tale of Two Cities: Taipei and SF

Over the past year, I (Warren) have been struck by the many differences living in Taipei compared to San Francisco.  There are so many things I appreciate about Taiwan living, but there are also accompanied downsides.  As our time winds down, I narrowed it down to three better and three challenging aspects to life in Taipei --

What's Better About Life in Taipei:

Superior public restrooms.

This may seem like a minor issue, but with three young kids, it's a comfort to know that nearly anywhere you go, there will be a clean restroom for them.  Almost always there is toilet paper alongside a recently cleaned toilet.  Often there will be a dispenser with cleaner to use to wipe the surface of the toilet seat.  Child-size toilets are also fairly common.  In many public places there is also a handy display showing which stalls are currently occupied/vacant.  There's really no debate on this as I'm sure our kids will notice this immediately when we return.

Transportation.

Public transportation in Taipei is amazing. We loved not having a car to worry about and enjoyed the plentiful taxis, buses, and the subway.  We took high speed trains all over Taipei and marveled at the affordability and convenience.  It made the whole city feel so much more accessible.  In the US we can't seem to figure out how to balance our suburban sprawl, our geographic scale, with accessibility.

Elderly people’s lives.

There are old folks everywhere in Taipei!  Spend some time here and you will see them exercising in large numbers in the parks, riding the buses, chatting on their front porch with neighbors, and being wheeled around the city by family or helpers.  

Everyone gets freee government sponsored health care - when Melissa's parents were here - they took full advantage and discovered and remedied medical issues that may very well have extended their lives!  Not only that, it was key that they didn't need to drive to get anywhere to see specialists and therapists all over the city. I found it refreshing that the whole country honors and prioritizes seniors in so many little ways -- from having functional elevators in all public spaces, to free senior passes to use the MRT, to elderly-friendly exercise equipment spread all around the city (e.g., picture). And don't forget the enduring cultural backdrop of filial piety where kids still take responsibility for direct care of their elderly parents. In the US, the older generation feel like afterthoughts.  The US doesn't demonstrate much care much about those who can no longer contribute to society in the same way as before.  It feels so much more dignified here.

What's Worse About Life in Taipei:

Weather and natural disasters.

Brutal weather.  Just BRUTAL.  Summer months get up to 95 degrees with punishing humidity.  You walk outside and last about 3 minutes before you're hunting for the closest A/C.   

Our family adapted well enough, but our first months being July, August, September, were not an easy introduction.  Once you get through the summer heat, you still have 70%-90% humidity all year long (which Melissa can tell you about how that impacts family hair-care). It rains roughly half of the year and it often comes with no warning or on days with a published 0% chance of precipitation. Typhoons visited Taiwan three times in our year here.  You need to carry an umbrella every day of the year to fend off either the intense sunlight or torrential rain (and sometimes both in the same day). I look forward to returning to 68 degrees and sunny every day in SF.

Mosquitos and bugs.

Our kids' legs, arms, and faces were ravaged by the relentless insects all year round (our kids' legs looked worse than this).  The humidity comes with so many midges and mosquitos which were always waiting for you in the morning or early evening especially after rainfall.  It's nearly the same as it was when I was a kid in Taiwan 40+ years ago -- I was hoping things had changed!  We enforce a daily application of sunblock and bug spray which is burdensome and time consuming (and often didn't work).  It finally made sense why many people don't wear shorts in Taipei even in 90+ degree weather.  When people are waiting at busy crosswalks, it is seems like the whole group of 50 people need to go to the bathroom because they keep moving their legs to avoid bug bites.

Young people’s lives.

In Taiwan, I had the privilege of sending the older girls to a bilingual school in Beitou and also working with some students and families in middle/high school as they prepare to go to university abroad (through ed consulting work).  My conclusion is that the life of a young(er) person in Taiwan is really tough - and probably tougher than in the US.   

Schooling feels burdensome and hours are super long in a context where traditional pedagogy and approach to learning (more time on task) dominate.  Kids are often spotted doing work by themselves at a 7-11 still in their school uniform at 9p.  Hours and hours of homework starts VERY early (Ellie had over an hour/day in 1st grade). Despite nearly universal college attainment, the pressure to succeed is still very high, the wages are quite low - compared to the US - and the prospects to attend college abroad is fiercely competitive.  Young people don't have much space to play, pursue extra-curricular interests, or simply have down time.  Add on top of that, mandatory military service for the young men and the cultural expectation that mothers should not be working too much outside of the home, while still taking care of elderly parents, and it is no wonder that young people are delaying marriage and/or deciding not to have kids.  Taipei has very high rents (comparable to a major city in US) adding significant economic pressure. I come away from Taiwan with much sympathy for the average young person studying and trying to navigate the many pressures and expectations put upon them.


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Overall, I have been so grateful for our year abroad.  We have been so lucky to have this experience and to bring our girls along for the ride.  Nobody revolted and demanded we go home (even with the bugs and heat) and we have so many memories that will last a lifetime.  We have made new precious friendships.  We were able to host so many of our family and closest friends in Taipei this year.  Despite all of its challenges, Taiwan is such a special place and I couldn't recommend it more to anyone who is considering visiting or bringing their families here for a short or long stay.  We can't wait to come back again soon!